Hyderabad is one of the few cities in India that seamlessly blends a rich historical legacy with a vibrant metropolitan energy. Here, the charm of the old and the modern effortlessly coexist, creating a unique urban tapestry.
One moment, you stand in the shadow of the Qutb Shahi Tombs, captivated by the architecture that whispers tales of the city’s royal history. Just a few kilometers away, HITEC City greets you with sleek glass buildings housing global tech giants, showcasing Hyderabad’s prominence as an IT powerhouse.
Hyderabad truly thrives on contrasts, and nowhere is this duality more apparent than in its cafe culture. From Irani cafes serving traditional chai to contemporary, aesthetic spaces offering gourmet coffee, both worlds share a common bond — the simple yet powerful name: “cafe.”
The Timeless Tradition of Irani Chai
“Sabse zyaada chai pasand karte log mere cafe main,” says Mir Gaffar Ali, the second-generation owner of Ali Cafe.
Nestled in Dabeerpura, Ali Cafe is the epitome of the classic Hyderabadi Irani cafe. As you step inside, you’re immediately transported to a time when simplicity and tradition ruled. The decor is unapologetically old-school — wooden tables and chairs, glass jars brimming with Osmania biscuits on the counter, and tiled walls that hold the stories of countless conversations shared over the years.
Founded in 1964 by Mir Dawood Ali, Ali Cafe has been at the heart of the Dabeerpura community, playing a pivotal role in local life. “Mere walid Mir Dawood Ali yeh cafe start kare the. Ever since the start, we have been catering to the people in this area for every occasion of their life. From wedding catering to simple evening gatherings, Ali Cafe has always been the go-to place,” he says.
The cafe serves as more than just a place for food and tea; it’s a tribute to the city’s rich culinary heritage, with a menu featuring only Hyderabadi staples. Signature dishes like Biryani, Haleem, Luqmi, and Malai Bun, all deeply woven into the fabric of Hyderabad’s food culture, remain crowd favorites.
Yet, despite being a cherished hub for the local community, Ali Cafe mirrors a longstanding reality seen in many Irani cafes: it remains a predominantly male space. Women, if they visit at all, are a rare sight. “It’s just how it is. This has been going on for decades now. Men have always been our key customers, and women don’t typically prefer coming here. It’s not just older men either; our primary customer base is between the ages of 20 and 40,” Gaffar shares.
The absence of women highlights one of the defining characteristics of Irani cafes, underscoring their traditional role as gathering points for men, where they come together to relax, socialize, and engage in conversations on any topic under the sun.
The New Era of Gourmet Coffee
Around 2014-15, Hyderabad experienced a revolution in its cafe culture. A new wave of ‘Instagrammable’ cafes began to emerge, redefining the city’s concept of a cafe. Unlike the traditional Irani cafes, these contemporary establishments placed a strong emphasis on the overall experience, blending aesthetics with gourmet coffee and a modern ambiance.
“40% of the success of a cafe depends on its ambiance. Customers need a beautiful setting, complete with an ‘Instagram wall’ where they can capture aesthetic pictures. These new-age cafes, including ours, aim to provide an escape from the hustle and bustle, with peaceful vibes and greenery all around,” says Syed Mujtaba Ali, co-founder of L’affaire Cafe in Jubilee Hills. However, he adds, the interior design can only bring customers in for their first visit; loyalty is built on a menu that is focused on high-quality coffee.
What truly sets these cafes apart is their commitment to offering unique experiences. They are not just places to meet; they are cultural and creative hubs. “Every week, we host a variety of events, from open mic nights and poetry readings to stand-up comedy shows, book clubs, yoga sessions, and live music performances,” Mujtaba explains to Siasat.
In addition to this, the demographic of these new-age cafes is notably different. L’affaire Cafe, for instance, has a majority customer base of women — a significant departure from the male-dominated Irani cafes. What’s even more striking is that the women who frequent these spaces aren’t just young girls, but women of all ages. Middle-aged women, too, find comfort in the peaceful ambiance of L’affaire, often hosting kitty parties and social gatherings in its serene setting.
The Future of Hyderabad’s Cafe Culture
As Hyderabad’s cafe culture continues to evolve, the question of what lies ahead remains a topic of ongoing discussion.
For owners like Gaffar Ali, the future of his cafe appears stable, yet not without its challenges. He acknowledges the pressure to modernize and upgrade his establishment, but the combination of limited resources and a loyal customer base that still values the traditional setting makes him hesitant to embrace drastic changes. Irani cafes, he believes, will continue to hold their place as integral parts of Hyderabad’s cultural landscape.
In contrast, Syed Mujtaba Ali embraces the new wave of change and is optimistic about the future of Hyderabad’s cafe culture. While he recognizes that chai will always be a core part of the city’s identity, he also points to the enduring popularity of Instagrammable cafes, especially in today’s social media-driven age.
“All I wish is to celebrate the coexistence of both cafes, perhaps with a special Osmania biscuit espresso,” he says, chuckling.
