Forty years ago, I first set foot in the Qutb Shahi Tombs, accompanied by the eager members of the Birdwatchers Society of Andhra Pradesh, now called Deccan Birders. Our expedition was led by Pushp Kumar, IFS, who was the Chief Conservator of Forests of Andhra Pradesh at the time.
That passionate group of forest officers ignited a profound love for nature within us, especially for birdwatching. Back then, the area surrounding the Qutb Shahi Tombs and the foothills of Golconda resembled a wild, untamed jungle. The landscape was a patchwork of tall grasses, dense undergrowth, and trees with wide, sprawling canopies. Shepherds freely roamed the grounds, tending to their goats, sheep, and cows amidst the tombs, which were open and unrestricted.
Time and nature had left their mark on the tombs. The relentless sun and rain had darkened many of the structures, leaving the domes streaked with rainwater stains, while moss and small plants clung to their surfaces. Sadly, some tombs bore the scars of vandalism—graffiti, names, initials, and even “I love you” messages etched into their walls.
It was 1982, and I vividly remember the rainy season. The ground was a lush carpet of green, with the fertile, moist earth nourishing an abundance of vegetation. As we wandered among the tombs, searching for birds, bees, butterflies, and blossoms, I stumbled upon a large, fully-grown white mushroom.
What caught my eye was how the mushroom’s umbrella-like cap resembled the dome of a tomb. To this day, I wonder if the dome-like structures we see around the world were inspired by nature’s original design. On that Sunday, August 8, 1982, we recorded 25 bird species, meticulously documented by Aasheesh Pittie, a world-renowned ornithologist from Hyderabad. Aasheesh, the editor of Indian Birds and author of two monumental works, Birds in Books and The Written Bird, is widely regarded as an authority in the field of ornithology.
Over the years, numerous birdwatching expeditions have taken place at the Qutb Shahi Tombs, and, unknown to many, a remarkable 82 bird species have been recorded in this area. Among the resident birds are Drongos, Kites, Shikras, Grey Hornbills, Bee-eaters, Munias, Red-wattled Lapwings, Parakeets, Spotted Doves, Indian Robins, Sunbirds, and Barbets. This 171-year-old heritage site, which represents the legacy of the Qutb Shahi rulers near Golconda Fort, is a source of pride for Telangana. The extensive 14-year renovation project, recently completed, has brought well-deserved recognition to the site’s rich arboreal heritage and wildlife.
Necropolis with Evolving Styles
As Sibghat Khan, an architect and historian with Deccan Archives in Hyderabad, explains, “It is perhaps the only necropolis where one can witness the evolution of architectural style during the reign of a dynasty, blending Indian and Iranian influences with elements of Vijayanagar-Hampi architecture.” He further elaborates that in their prime, the tombs were lavishly adorned with carpets and beautiful chandeliers. Handwritten copies of the Quran were placed on pedestals, inviting visitors to recite chosen verses.
The Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC), which undertook meticulous conservation work on the monuments, also focused on preserving the ecological heritage within the 100-acre complex. Asiya Khan, a passionate naturalist dedicated to the preservation of ancient trees, is associated with the project as a tree consultant. As part of the conservation efforts, Asiya and her husband, Azam Khan, conducted a survey to document the flora within the sprawling complex. Asiya proudly notes that the site is home to 3,300 trees representing 75 species, including Gulmohar, Amaltas, Champa, Rain tree, Ficus, and Pomegranate. Some of these trees, such as the Tamarind and Banyan, are massive and could easily be over 100 years old, with their ages to be scientifically determined in due course. Currently, most of the trees are tagged with their names in three languages for accurate identification. Asiya concludes by emphasizing that the expansive campus is an ideal habitat for birds, bees, butterflies, and indigenous flora.
Blocking Sandalwood Thieves
The tranquillity of the Qutb Shahi Heritage Park was disrupted in the summer of 2016 when thieves cut down and stole ten mature sandalwood trees from the premises. To prevent such incidents, security measures have since been enhanced. Today, the Qutb Shahi Heritage Park stands as a prestigious example of conservation and landscape restoration, thanks to the efforts of the Aga Khan Trust in partnership with the Department of Heritage of the Government of Telangana. The restoration of each historical structure within the necropolis has been made possible through the generous support of the Tata Trusts, the US Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation, IndiGo Reach/InterGlobe Foundation, and the Consulate of the Federal Republic of Germany.
Summing up the overall ambiance of the Qutb Shahi Heritage Park, Ratish Nanda of the AKTC eloquently remarks, “We have endeavoured to create a comprehensive, integrated conservation that mirrors the original landscape and heritage atmosphere of the past.” The complex spans over 100 acres and includes more than 100 monuments, featuring six large Baolis (ancient stepwells) that can hold over 20 million litres of water. Some monuments tower nearly 150 feet, while the wells reach depths of 100 feet, presenting significant challenges during restoration. AKTC is also addressing climate change, water harvesting, environmental concerns, and the planting of 15,000 native trees to maintain an ambient atmosphere conducive to preserving the monuments. These efforts ensure that future generations will appreciate and reflect upon the charming cenotaphs, finding delight in both the archaeological and ecological zones.
