Chowmahalla is not just a structure—it’s a character in itself, with a personality that’s both regal and warm. Each hall—Nakkar Khana, Rang Mahal, Afzal Mahal, and Khilwat Mahal—has its own tale, waiting to be told. As you wander through these halls, you can almost hear the laughter of the Nizams, the chatter of their courtiers, and the sound of music that once filled these spaces.
History and Significance
Chowmahalla Palace, a historical edifice located in the heart of Hyderabad, India, was once the seat of the Asaf Jahi dynasty. The construction of the palace was ordered by the fourth Nizam, Salabat Jung, in 1750 and was completed under the supervision of Nizam Afzar-ud-Dawla Bahadur in 1869. The name Chowmahalla means “four palaces” (chow being a variation of chār or chahār, meaning four; and mahala meaning palace). The erstwhile home of the Nizams of
Hyderabad underwent restoration and repair over a period of five years from 2005 to 2010, under the patronage of Princess Esra, to make it more engaging for public viewing.
The palace, which mirrors the architecture of Shah’s Palace in Tehran, was also recognized by UNESCO in 2010 for being exceptional in cultural heritage conservation. It is still owned by the heirs of the Nizams and is currently the property of Barkat Ali Khan Mukarram Jah.
The complex consists of four palaces as part of the southern courtyard: Aftab Mahal, Afzal Mahal, Tahniyat Mahal, and Mahtab Mahal, arranged around a central fountain and pool. The northern courtyard consists of the Bara Imam, a long corridor of rooms on the east side facing the central fountain and pool that once housed the administrative wing. Opposite the Bara Imam lies the Shishe-Alat, meaning “mirror image,” of the Bara Imam.
The heart of the Chowmahalla Palace is the Khilwat Mubarak. It is particularly famous for the ornate work on its walls and ceilings, a mechanical clock that has been functioning for over 250 years, the 19 chandeliers of Belgian crystal in the Durbar Hall, and the marble platform on which the Takht-e-Nishan (royal seat) was placed. It was in the Durbar Hall that the Nizams held their durbar (court) and other religious and symbolic ceremonies.
The Council Hall has been converted into a museum with a rare collection of manuscripts and priceless books on display. The Nizam often met important officials and dignitaries here. Today it is a venue for temporary exhibitions from the treasures of the Chowmahalla Palace collection. The museum also has paintings, photographs, textiles, books, religious objects, maps, and arms on display for public viewing. The Buggie Khana houses the collection of the various Nizams’ vintage cars and is open to the public.
Architecture and Design
Chowmahalla Palace showcases a blend of architectural styles, featuring strong influences of Mughal, European, and Islamic designs. The main part of the palace, the Khilwat Mahal, is built in the shape of a scimitar, with a façade of 75 meters in length. The palace’s interior is equally impressive, with intricate carvings, paintings, and marble floors. Intriguingly, the floors of the palace are intentionally uneven to prevent eavesdropping, as the design of the hall amplifies sounds.
Khilwat Mahal
The Khilwat Mahal was the throne room where the Nizam would receive his subjects. Its grandeur is evident in the large alabaster chandeliers, ornate ceiling, and the throne itself, which is made of marble and studded with precious stones. The walls are adorned with portraits of the seven Nizams, each adding to the palace’s historical narrative.
Grand Stables
Adjacent to the palace is a stable, now converted into a museum, where one can witness the grandeur of the Nizams’ passion for horses. The stable once housed the royal horses and carriages, including the famous Rolls Royce Silver Ghost that was converted into a carriage.
Museums and Exhibits
The palace now functions as a museum, offering visitors a chance to explore its rich history through various exhibits. These include a collection of vintage cars, royal regalia, arms, and artifacts that belonged to the Nizams. Each item tells a story of the palace’s past, from the intricately patterned carpets to the ceremonial swords and shields.
Visiting Chowmahalla Palace
Chowmahalla Palace is open to the public, allowing history enthusiasts and tourists to explore its opulence. The best time to visit is during the Hyderabad Heritage Walks, organised from November to February, when the weather is pleasant. These walks provide a guided tour through the palace and its surroundings, enriching the experience with anecdotes and historical insights.
Tips for Visitors
- Photography: While photography is allowed in some areas, it is prohibited in others. Always check for signs or ask the palace staff before taking photographs.
- Guided Tours: Consider taking a guided tour to get the most out of your visit. Guides are available at the palace and can provide detailed information about the palace’s history and architecture.
- Timing: The palace is typically open from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, and it is advisable to check for any changes in timing before planning your visit.
Chowmahalla Palace is not just a building; it is a living testament to the culture, traditions, and history of Hyderabad. Its opulence and grandeur make it a must-visit for anyone interested in history and architecture, offering a unique window into the lives of the Nizams and the city they once ruled.
