The aroma of freshly buttered bun maska, the crunch of warm samosas, and the comforting warmth of creamy Irani chai. These are the simple pleasures that have defined the experience of visiting an Irani café in India for over a century.
Known for their signature marble-topped tables, antique clocks, checkered floors, and distinctive menus, these Persian-style cafes have been an integral part of Indian culture. Originating in the 18th and 19th centuries, they emerged in cities like Mumbai and Pune as Persian immigrants from Iran sought refuge in India. But it’s not just these two cities that boast a rich history of Irani cafes. The southern city of Hyderabad also became a hub for these beloved eateries, intertwining them with the city’s cultural fabric.
Hyderabad, which still has the highest number of Irani cafes after Mumbai, became a center for Iranian trade in the late 19th century. The city’s historic Niloufer Café, for example, was named after the daughter-in-law of a Nizam, or local ruler, who had Persian roots. During this time, the city’s close ties with Iran made it a natural home for Persian traders and their families. Many had come to escape persecution or famine back home, while others sought better economic opportunities.
The British colonial rule, which was promoting tea drinking in India, also played a part. The Persians brought their own tea traditions, giving rise to a unique Iranian chai culture in Indian cities. While Iranians traditionally drank tea without milk, Indians added their own twist, incorporating milk and cream, creating the rich, creamy chai we know today.
By the 20th century, Irani cafes were everywhere in Hyderabad, becoming a vital part of the city’s social life. These cafes were more than just places to grab a bite; they were community spaces where people from all walks of life could gather. It didn’t matter what religion or caste you belonged to—everyone was welcome to sit, sip chai, and chat for hours. These cafes even offered patrons the chance to play their favorite songs on jukeboxes, adding to their lively atmosphere.
However, despite their deep-rooted charm and historical significance, Irani cafes in Hyderabad, like those in Pune and Mumbai, are now on the brink of extinction. Rising costs, the rapid spread of fast-food chains, and changing consumer preferences are putting immense pressure on these iconic establishments.
According to Jaleel Farooq Rooz, owner of The Grand Hotel in Hyderabad, the number of Irani cafes in the city has dwindled dramatically—from around 450 just two decades ago to only 125 today. Rooz’s grandfather, who migrated from Iran in 1951, took over the Grand Hotel, which had been founded by a group of Iranians in 1935. Once, the café sold 8,000-9,000 cups of chai daily; now, it struggles to sell half that number.
The economic changes that swept through Hyderabad in the mid-1990s, when the city became a major player in India’s IT industry, also played a role. The influx of global fast-food chains, offering more modern amenities and a wider variety of options, drew customers away from traditional Irani cafes. Real estate prices skyrocketed, making it difficult for many café owners to continue operating in the large, rented spaces these cafes required. Additionally, inflation has caused the cost of tea and milk to triple in the past five years, further straining the businesses.
Another challenge is the waning interest among the younger generation of Iranian families, who are opting for different careers or emigrating abroad instead of taking over their family businesses.
Yet, some, like Syed Mohammed Razak, are determined to keep their family legacies alive. Razak, whose grandfather migrated from Tehran and established the City Light Hotel in the 1970s, now manages the Red Rose Restaurant in Hyderabad. An engineer and graphic designer by profession, Razak has expanded the restaurant’s menu and is leveraging his design skills to promote the business online, hoping to attract more customers.
For many loyal patrons, the pull of Irani chai is irresistible. Regulars, who frequent the Grand Hotel, insist that there is nothing quite like the taste of Irani tea, and they keep coming back for more.
The Irani cafes of Hyderabad are not just places to eat and drink; they are living relics of a rich cultural history, a symbol of community and secularism in the city. But with their numbers rapidly declining, these beloved institutions face an uncertain future, leaving us to wonder how much longer we’ll be able to enjoy a steaming cup of Irani chai in the ambiance of these iconic cafes.
